The "Nose Rider" triple stringer vintage long board takes surfing back to the 1960's. Whether you want to cruise, trim a wave, or nose ride, this timeless design suits both beginners and advance surfers that desire a pure and retro experience in the world of modern surfing.
10148 minutes ago
Wishing all the competitors at Sea Harvest Grom Games all the best for today. 📷 @petronel_posthumus
A little backstory on this shot, tied in with what editing means to me: Out in the water, I have limited control. I love my gear and know it like an extension of my mind, but the nature of surf photography just puts some elements out of your control. Despite this, I want to share with you what it’s like to be in the water, right there, up close and personal. I love shooting into the light, though that’s uncommon in many types of photography, I have my reasons, and that may be worth it’s own post… but back to the shot: It was my initial swim out, I hadn’t even gotten set…and Reid just cruised straight down the line tucking into this mini North Florida curl. Just left of frame is the sun… but not the sunrise, the “blind me with a blue floating dot on my retina for the next 5 minutes harsh sun”. There isn’t a camera in the world that can handle that information. Depending on your settings and shooting mode… it will drop ISO down to the base, pinch aperture down to a pinhole, and crank shutter speed into the nano-universe. I know how to keep those in check, but the color and contrast go into the dumpster. I wanted this shot, Reid wanted this shot… and I snapped it, but the camera spit out some horrible green and pink, yellow sky washed out pixel waste. I could barely see Reid, but the sky and clouds looked like a drawing you make when you are a kid… but you are using crayons, and you keep using different colors on top of each other and it becomes this horrible wax mess. .
Anyhow, this is why I edit. I can still see this moment. I can see that wave light up when it lifted behind Reid. I can feel the blinding brightness of the sun, I can feel the salty full face squint I had as I pulled behind my camera. In the edit I bring that back. The camera wants to capture every detail it can… but thats not why my eyes saw, its not how it felt, and it’s not how the memory sticks with me…and that’s what I came here to share. .
Several years ago I lent this board to a restaurant at La Jolla Shores called"The Shore Rider" for display in their dining area. When the original owner sold the business and the new owner took over, my board which was on loan, disappeared. Neither the original owner nor the new owner told me they weren't sure what happened to my board. So now I am out a surfboard and the cost of materials and labor to make it.
If anybody knows the whereabouts of this board in the San Diego area could you let me know by direct message or let the people or person who has this board to return it to me.